Racing around the Llyn Peninsula in 24 hours

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A 24-HOUR whistle-stop tour of the Llyn Peninsula isn’t long enough to do this spectacular stretch of Welsh coastline justice, writes NICK HARRISON.

But we gave it a good go, dodging the September showers to take in the towns of Porthmadog, Criccieth, Abersoch and Pwllheli.

Even before you get to see the sea, the drive from Bala over the top of the mountains to Trawsfynydd can take your breath away especially with the sun beaming down - as it was in Porthmadog when we parked up at 10.15am for the first walk of the day.

For those of you who may want to follow this speedy-tour, I can supply you the distances in miles and yards, metric kilometres or for those who use their watches for everything apart from going to the toilets, the steps for the day added up to 20,000-plus.

From the main car park in Porthmadog, head across the road to the harbour and then follow the harbour road that will lead you to beautiful Borth-y-Gest and a cup of coffee in the Sea View Bistro, that was already buzzing with breakfasters.

Because we were booked in for lunch in three hours time, there was no need to get the nose-bag on for a traditional Welsh! Instead it was off to Samson’s Bay – one of many hidden beaches along the Gwynedd coast.

The coastal path takes you past Porthmadog Golf Club and onto Black Rock beach and for those who may want to explore further, hear this!

Walk the length of Black Rock beach, head for the hill and you can follow the path that will take you over the mountainside to Criccieth and straight into the popular Dylan’s Restaurant!

Again, that wasn’t part of our plan as it was back to Porthmadog and a quick scour of the shops on the main street where you’ll find The Australia pub.

Famous for its Purple Moose beer, they also have a shop two doors down so if you’re behind the wheel like I was, you can always stock up there instead of sampling a pint.

Next stop was Abersoch – and lunch at The Potted Lobster.

The route takes you through both Criccieth and Pwllheli and takes around 40 minutes from Porthmadog.

Abersoch has a reputation for attracting the rich and famous and how ironic that Abba’s ‘Money, money, money’ blasted out on the radio driving into the already-bustling main street.

Abersoch has a whole host of eateries, pubs and the White Stuff, Animal, Fat Face retailers for those who want to surf the shops.

Having been to The Potted Lobster twice before for dinner, this was a lunch-time first and it was busy as we walked in at just after one o’clock.

We’d already decided to share a sea-food platter as you’ve got to have fish – battered or not – when you’re at the seaside.

The waiter recommended we had the mussels, that were included in the platter, as a starter, as we’d never manage to manoeuvre everything around on the table.

The mussels, cooked in a very creamy, garlic and white wine sauce, were excellent.

The platter included Potted Lobster, shell-on crevettes, torched mackerel, crispy calamari, whitebait, anchovies and, of course, the customary fries.

It was good but maybe the pair of us were thinking of the last sea-food platter we’d shared in Nice where there was so much picking and peeling to do, the restaurant ran out of serviettes!

Adding a glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a Diet Coke to the bill, it worked out at around £75 - and that’s not bad for Abersoch.

Abersoch has so much to offer with a great beach and the wonderful Warren holiday complex that boasts its own beach.

But Pwllheli was our main stop and with time clicking on, it was getting close to 4pm and I’d not had a pint yet!

Pwllheli doesn’t boast that many places for overnight stays but above the Martha Jones shop on the High Street, there are rooms. And they were perfect.

Roomy, clean and a cracking shower that didn’t drip-drop like many do, it was well worth the price that included a basketful of breakfast treats with a pint of milk in the room-fridge too.

Walks in Pwllheli are good too. You’ve got the West Shore that takes you from Gimblet Rock, past the golf course and keep going on the coastal path, you’ll end up climbing down to the beach at Llanbedrog.

Again, that wasn’t on the agenda so we did a circular back into the town and a spying mission on how Keith and Marj – stars of Our Welsh Chapel TV show – were getting on with their renovation of what was the town’s derelict Capel Salem. The flags weren’t flying on top of this imposing building, but the residents, according to neighbour Gillian, were at home.

Gillian was a real salt of the earth character, describing how Pwllheli was the place to be and how warmly their new famous friends from across the road had been.

A pint of Porth Neigwl in the Whitehall pub and a Purple Moose in Wetherspoon’s Pen Cob were followed by quick stroll along the Marina wall as the rain clouds were moving in.

To finish the night off it was a curry in the brilliant Nomi restaurant.

It’s not what you would call a traditional British curry house. No Kormas and Bhunsa, it’s different and I like to try different curries and that’s why I opted for the Chicken Chettinad.

A concoction of herbs and spices, the south Indian dish had a little kick to it and worked a treat with the Saffron rice and two pints of the ‘Feed, me till I want no more’ Wrexham Lager.

My partner went for Achari Chicken – an aromatic Tikka dish – and described it as the best curry she’s ever had!

One more nightcap in The Whitehall and in the morning, there was time for  a quick look around the shops, a coffee in Costa and then the final stop-off the 24-hour tour.

It has always amazed me looking at castles and imagining how they’ve carried all those rock-heavy stones up hillsides. But I suppose the health and safety laws in those days weren’t as tight.

Criccieth’s a Welsh castle classic and it was just a quick stroll along the windy front to take in the great views of the fortress and that was it...10.15 and time up.

But with so many other places on the peninsula to cram in, there could be a part two to this Llyn odyssey...

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