I HAVE a confession to make. A few years ago, when I should have been doing my university essays, I used to sneak into town and have a pint in the Pentan.
It was the closest drinking hole, there was no dress code – and I have to rack my brains to think of anything else complimentary to say about the old Pentan.
Since then, the pub has had a facelift, and the new owners have done a sterling job.
This new Pentan is light, friendly and comfortable, and the changes aren’t simply cosmetic, although the little touches, like the scatter of books you can thumb through while you wait for your food, are much appreciated.
In the old days, the entertainment consisted of self-pitying indie rock played by a high school band, but the new Pentan is an altogether livelier place.
There are comedy evenings, reggae nights, plays, parties, poetry readings, open mic nights and less regular items like wine tastings.
Smooth jazz is piped through the bar, but the staff are happy to change the track if you’d prefer something different.
Gone are the pizzas and burgers of old – the food in the new Pentan is at least on par with some of its classy local rivals, and it is reasonably priced.
The bar staff welcomed us like regulars and we were served immediately, after someone very kindly carried the specials board from the restaurant into the bar for us.
The food took a while because there was a large party next door, but the owner, Blue Douglas, was apologetic and offered us a complimentary drink.
I ordered a side dish of olives and bread and a swordfish steak risotto as my main meal, while my companion had Scottish salmon and pesto on a bed of lettuce and a sticky toffee pudding for desert.
The olives were marinated in a zingy homemade mix of chilli, honey and olive oil, and the risotto was creamy and beautifully textured. Both portions of fish were tender, moist and delicate, falling apart under the tines of the fork.
The vegetables were steamed rather than boiled, so they had a solid, fresh crispiness.
The pudding came piping hot and covered in sweet sauce, but perhaps it was a bit much after a sizeable main meal.
Despite the delay, I was pleased by the prompt and helpful service and I sincerely hope the new-style Pentan is here to stay.
THE BILL:
£5.75: swordfish risotto
£9.75: two course special of pesto salmon and sticky toffee pudding
£1.95: vegetables x 2 (although one is enough for two)
£1.95: olives and bread
£2.90: Guiness
£1.50: Half pint Guiness
Total: £25.75